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When curating a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee well-known award-winning venues. Yet, tucked high among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying corner of north London.

An Shocking Honour

The small Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. This honour has made the proprietors completely astonished.

“I’m utterly astonished,” states the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small place earning such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a popular destination, has kept much of its original charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the food, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this culinary achievement.